lsayer wrote:
Hello all. Following my terrible performance in the winter warmer competition I have decided to blame my tools. Talking to a few of you it was suggested that a brew in the bag system might be an appropriate set up for a beginner like me. I so far have managed to secure some mesh stuff for the bag...
But I have big plans!
I'm thinking of a 33L stock pot (any ideas of where to get these relatively cheap would be appreciated), I'll build a wooden stand, so post boil I can just use gravity to transfer the liquid into some other vessel for cooling/fermentation. I'm planning on using a kettle element, (are these best installed in the flat base of a pot or is it ok in the curved side?). Ill probably use an arduino with some sensors to turn it on/off at the right temperature. That has the advantage that I can set it to start before I wake up so it saves a bit of time on brew day and I already have an arduino so no shelling out for PID controllers or anything. For a tap to get the wort out are there any rules I should worry about (any metals that leave a funny taste etc?).
As for cooling wort I've been reading around on here and some suggest just decanting into plastic jerry cans and cooling overnight. Is this a good method, does it affect clarity to cool so slowly?
I'll try and post pictures as I build although I probably wont be doing anything until mid Jan.
Cheers,
Lawrie
Yes to rajanis - you can use Aluminium without any worries. kettle element in the side, with at least 1/2" clearance from the bottom of the element to the base of the pot. Mr. lard will sell you a good stainless tap, kettle element and I would also recommend the stainless shroud for the element connection. I have used the no - chill method with success and no issues with clarity. IMO BIAB and no chill is a sound and low cost method. You can just use an old sleeping bag or similar to insulate the pot while you mash. I know you say you have the mesh but I bought a bag from brewinabag.com and would recommend it for ease of use.
cheers
steve